PierpointPierpoint, 1822 Aliceanna St., 675-2080. This...

DINING OUT/THE CRITICS' REPORT

January 18, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Roland Park Cafe The Sun Shogun The Sunday Sun

Pierpoint

Pierpoint, 1822 Aliceanna St., 675-2080. This small Fells Point restaurant offers an atmosphere that is sophisticated in a "new Baltimore" kind of way. The dining area is just two deep, narrow rooms with the first room occupied by the bar and a few tables. The aisles are thin; the decor spare; the colors muted; the tables almost too close together. The lean decor only serves to emphasize the food, which is sophisticated, but traditional, rooted in Maryland's rich culinary traditions. The presentations are rich, the flavors true and compelling. The Eggplant Layer Cake was an unusually delicious way to begin and worth a trip back. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 12/91.) Roland Park Cafe, 413 W. Cold Spring Lane, 889-2233. From its old-fashioned decor to the excellent crab cakes and the waitress who called us "sweetie," this friendly place already has the feel of a Baltimore tradition. The cafe, with its paintings and chandeliers, has an air of white-gloves gentility, but the food isn't white-bread. Mingled with the conservative fare are hearty pastas, decadent mousse pate and, surprisingly, a selection of Thai appetizers. $ to $$inexpensive to moderate. (Last visited 12/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Shogun, 316 N. Charles St., 962-1130. Shogun offers 23 different kinds of sushi: mirugai, akagi, torigai, masago and shime saba for the adventuresome; flounder, octopus, tuna and yellowtail for those who like to know what they're eating. Our $14 sashimi and sushi dinner included soup (miso beat suimono by a yard), a well-dressed salad, tuna, flounder, octopus, shrimp, a maki wrap of fish eggs, salmon, sea legs and mackerel marinated in lemon. I'd order it again tomorrow. $$moderate. (Last visited 7/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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