Pierpoint
Pierpoint, 1822 Aliceanna St., 675-2080. This small Fells Point restaurant offers an atmosphere that is sophisticated in a "new Baltimore" kind of way. The dining area is just two deep, narrow rooms with the first room occupied by the bar and a few tables. The aisles are thin; the decor spare; the colors muted; the tables almost too close together. The lean decor only serves to emphasize the food, which is sophisticated, but traditional, rooted in Maryland's rich culinary traditions. The presentations are rich, the flavors true and compelling. The Eggplant Layer Cake was an unusually delicious way to begin and worth a trip back. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 12/91.) Roland Park Cafe, 413 W. Cold Spring Lane, 889-2233. From its old-fashioned decor to the excellent crab cakes and the waitress who called us "sweetie," this friendly place already has the feel of a Baltimore tradition. The cafe, with its paintings and chandeliers, has an air of white-gloves gentility, but the food isn't white-bread. Mingled with the conservative fare are hearty pastas, decadent mousse pate and, surprisingly, a selection of Thai appetizers. $ to $$inexpensive to moderate. (Last visited 12/91.)
