Sir Walter Raleigh,Sir Walter Raleigh, White Marsh Mall...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

January 11, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun China Chefs, The Sun Roland Park Cafe, The Sunday Sun

Sir Walter Raleigh,

Sir Walter Raleigh, White Marsh Mall, 256-3000. Sir Walter Raleigh offers little on the outside to hint at the good food inside. I've often walked past its entrance on my way into the mall without paying much attention. But inside, a fireplace glows in the clubby cocktail lounge and the main dining room is large, with plants and slowly turning fans. The encyclopedic salad bar offers Caesar salad, fresh fruit, more than half a dozen dressings and just about anything you'd want to put atop exceptionally fresh lettuce. The menu features steaks, burgers and ample seafood, plus lighter fare. I found the prime rib memorable, but the scallops not so. $$moderate (Last visited 11/91.) China Chefs, Hickory Plaza, 10801 Hickory Ridge Road, Columbia, (410) 730-1200. With its swanky suburban styling, China Chefs looks both pricy and Americanized. Don't be fooled -- check out the last page of the menu, which features the kind of dishes dear to the hearts of native Chinese and old China hands: braised buffalo fish cheeks, century-aged eggs and so forth. The less adventurous among us have plenty of well-prepared, if less than intriguing, dishes to choose from, too. $$moderate. (Last visited 12/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Roland Park Cafe, 413 W. Cold Spring Lane, 889-2233. We'd heard from people in the neighborhood -- there were high hopes for the Roland Park Cafe. For now, however, the food's still up and down. We found a pleasant cream of crab soup, and a clean-tasting chicken satay, and both a cheeseburger and a vegetable cheese melt made decently. But the chicken in garlic sauce was chewy and sticky, and seafood jambalaya suffered from goopiness. Desserts from Marinelli's in Little Italy weren't special, but could satisfy a sweet tooth. $$moderate. (Last visited 11/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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