Jeannier'sJeannier's, Broadview Apartments, 105 W. 39th...

DINNING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

January 04, 1992|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Inn at Perry Cabin The Sun Old South Mountain Inn The Sunday Sun

Jeannier's

Jeannier's, Broadview Apartments, 105 W. 39th St., 889-3303. Jeannier's isn't the best restaurant in town, though it's very good. It certainly isn't the trendiest -- far from it. But it gets my vote for being among the warmest and most comfortable. You can sit back here without feeling like a slouch. In addition, the food -- French -- is beautifully presented and full of interesting flavors. The menu is not large, but the selection is provocative: seafood casserole baked with saffron rice ($14.95), grilled brochette of shrimp and scallops marinated in herbs ($14.95) and sauteed veal medallions with a sweet and sour sauce ($13.25). $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 11/91.) The Inn at Perry Cabin, 308 Watkins Lane, St. Michaels, (410) 745-2200. One visitor commented that the Inn at Perry Cabin was "better than Disney World!" Of course. It's Ashleyworld. Everything at this waterfront mansion (owned by Sir Bernard Ashley, co-founder of the Laura Ashley empire) is perfectly calibrated to comfort and to enchant, from the water views, cushy down-filled sofas and English accents to the near-perfect

food. $$$$very expensive. (Last visited 12/91.

LYNN WILLIAMS Old South Mountain Inn, Alt. U.S. Route 40, Boonsboro, (301) 371-5400. Western Maryland isn't strong on restaurants, which makes the Inn especially worth keeping in mind. Appetizers were our best course: a gentle lentil soup, an oyster stew peppery with cayenne, a fine-minced, rich pate served with lingonberry -- sauce, and a fine pork sausage accompanied by a sauce of apples, onions, and balsamic vinegar. Salads, entrees, and desserts were undistinguished, except for a parchment-wrapped filet of salmon aromatic with shallots and dill. $$$expensive. (Last visited 10/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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