Golden Arm RestaurantGolden Arm Restaurant, 6354 York...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

December 07, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Sly Horse Tavern The Sun O'Leary's Sun Magazine

Golden Arm Restaurant

Golden Arm Restaurant, 6354 York Road, (410) 377-4019.

fTC From the outside, the Golden Arm on York Road, a short distance above Northern Parkway, looks like most other strip shopping center restaurants. Nondescript. On the inside, however, it's entirely different. Not haute cuisine, granted, but comfortable, flavorful food served in large quantities. The atmosphere, too, is comfortable -- warm and clubby and enhanced by a friendly staff. The pan-fried catfish, one of the night's specials, was sweet and perfectly cooked in a light breading. For $9.95, it was served with salad, two vegetables, dessert and coffee. $$-moderate (Last visited 11/91).

Sly Horse Tavern, 2 Village Green, Crofton, (410) 721-4550. The Colonial-style Sly Horse Tavern may be faux Williamsburg, but the cooking isn't faux anything. It's genuine regional American cuisine, contemporary and imaginative. Shiitake mushroom and asparagus soup, blackened mahi-mahi with avocado salsa, broiled quail topped with a pale, sweet Madeira cream sauce, and candy-like chocolate cake were scrumptious. Reservations are, understandably, a must. $$-moderate (last visited 11/91).

LYNN WILLIAMS O'Leary's, 310 Third St., Annapolis, (410) 263-0884. Lacking a water view, O'Leary's draws customers with fresh fish and a casual, attractive environment. Cold appetizers include sashimi. Hot appetizers go from oysters Rockefeller to baked brie en croute. Shellfish entrees include a platter of fried shellfish. Fresh fish for the day are listed on the chalk board and can be ordered mesquite grilled, sauteed, poached or baked. Prices are generally in the $16 to $18 range. We thought the kitchen best at basic operations. $$$-expensive (last visited 10/91).

JANICE BAKER

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