Mo's Fisherman's WharfMo's Fishermans' Wharf at the Inner...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS REPORT

November 23, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Italian Way The Sun Mediterranean Restaurant The Sunday Sun

Mo's Fisherman's Wharf

Mo's Fishermans' Wharf at the Inner Harbor, 219 President St., (410) 837-8600. This restaurant, on the western edge of Little Italy, boasts of having one of the area's largest seafood menus. The menu does, indeed, list more than 20 fish, not including shellfish. They can be had broiled, fried, poached, stuffed, Cajun-style or with marinara, bearnaise or hollandaise sauce. It also lists five lobster dishes and three surf-and-turf offerings. There is variety at Mo's, but that's not all. I found large portions of well-prepared food in attractive, downtown surroundings. $$ 1/2 -- moderately expensive. (Last visited 10/91.) Italian Way, 248 Albemarle St., (410) 685-1859. Reviewers generally don't like writing about Little Italy. The problem isn't our gastric juices, it's our creative juices: There's nothing new to say about this famous neighborhood and its restaurants. Straight down the line, Italian Way does it the Little Italian way, from the flag colors to the Vaccaro's cannoli. Although it may follow the formula, it follows it well. The portions are amazingly ample and the pasta is homemade. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 10/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Mediterranean Restaurant, 4901 Eastern Ave., (410) 633-9495. Here, at last, comes Greek food with a difference: no eternally cooked greens and pools of oil; instead, hot food, hot plates and fresh tastes. We liked the classics -- stuffed grapevine leaves, taramasalata, skordalia and moussaka. We liked a simple broiled rockfish. And we liked the unusual -- shrimp sauteed with feta cheese, and country-style lamb, a phyllo-wrapped envelope of roasted lamb combined with kasseri cheese, fresh dill, olives and artichokes. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 9/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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