TorremolinosTorremolinos Restaurant, 8 E. Preston St...

DINING OUT/ THE CRITICS' REPORT

November 16, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Sisson's The Sun Picolo Italiano Ristorante The Sunday Sun

Torremolinos

Torremolinos Restaurant, 8 E. Preston St., (410) 752-5227. This long-time Spanish restaurant closed for a month last summer "for renovations." I was a little worried -- we all know plenty of restaurants that never return from alleged renovation. But not Torremolinos. Right on schedule, it came back, with a new paint job and rejuvenated service. The food even tasted better than on an earlier visit. The Tornedos Torremolinos ($16.50) and Ternera Castellana ($13.95), veal in a lemon-butter sauce, were both tender, beautifully sauced and full of flavor.

$$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 10/91.) Sisson's, 36 E. Cross St., (410) 539-2093. It is famous for its home-brewed beer and Cajun cooking, but it's a well-kept secret that Sisson's has quietly turned into one of the best little restaurants in Baltimore. Our meal, featuring a celestial oyster pan roast, irresistible gumbo, a varied Cajun platter and a subtly spicy monkfish and mussel combo, was excellent throughout. Desserts are made in-house, and, like the other dishes, combined the sophisticated and the down-home. $$moderate. (Last visited 10/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Piccolo Italiano Ristorante, 1410 Forest Drive, Annapolis, (410) 280-0400. Located in a small, modern shopping complex outside the center of town, Piccolo Italiano feels nonetheless urban. Physically, it's handsome. Culinarily, it satisfies. We particularly liked a thick and delicious minestrone, Pappardelle (a pasta) alla Ammiraglia (albeit too salty), the assertive mushrooms in the fettuccine verdi al funghi, a glorious house salad and veal rolls lined with mozzarella. $$$expensive. (Last visited 9/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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