Torremolinos Restaurant, 8 E. Preston St., (410) 752-5227. This long-time Spanish restaurant closed for a month last summer "for renovations." I was a little worried -- we all know plenty of restaurants that never return from alleged renovation. But not Torremolinos. Right on schedule, it came back, with a new paint job and rejuvenated service. The food even tasted better than on an earlier visit. The Tornedos Torremolinos ($16.50) and Ternera Castellana ($13.95), veal in a lemon-butter sauce, were both tender, beautifully sauced and full of flavor.
$$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 10/91.) Sisson's, 36 E. Cross St., (410) 539-2093. It is famous for its home-brewed beer and Cajun cooking, but it's a well-kept secret that Sisson's has quietly turned into one of the best little restaurants in Baltimore. Our meal, featuring a celestial oyster pan roast, irresistible gumbo, a varied Cajun platter and a subtly spicy monkfish and mussel combo, was excellent throughout. Desserts are made in-house, and, like the other dishes, combined the sophisticated and the down-home. $$moderate. (Last visited 10/91.)