The BowmanThe Bowman, 9306 Harford Road, (410) 665-8600...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

November 09, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun Eichenkranz The Sun Duda's The Sunday Sun

The Bowman

The Bowman, 9306 Harford Road, (410) 665-8600. The Bowman, just outside the Beltway in Parkville, seems to enjoy a good reputation and a loyal clientele. It's an inviting, attractive restaurant with a warm dining room and a comfortable atmosphere. We found the service and the food a little less accomplished than on earlier visits, but still enjoyed our meal, especially the French onion soup ($3.25), with its rich, buttery edge, and a nicely done strip steak ($16.95). $$moderate. (Last visited 10/91.)

Eichenkranz, 611 Fagley St., (410) 563-7577. Eichenkranz, founded in the '30s as the Highlandtown headquarters for a German singing society, recently reopened. Outside, it looked like the old-timey beer hall we imagined, but when we walked in, we found ourselves in a decorous Continental restaurant. If you're in an Oktoberfest mood, though, don't fret: fat wursts, sauerbraten, strudel and a very pungent sauerkraut can be yours. And the sound system plays polkas. $$moderate. (Last visited 10/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Duda's, 1600 Thames St., Fells Point, (410) 276-9719. One of Duda's charms is a picturesque Fells Point location; others are good beer and a small, pleasant room. Onion rings, catfish sticks and clam strips tasted of mass production, but we liked the deep-fried crab cakes, a simple (almost too plain) mixed grill of tuna, mako shark and blue marlin, and a grilled 14-ounce New York strip steak. Best: casual bar food -- a delicious hamburger with cooked onions and a rich, smoked bluefish sandwich with onions and herbs. $$moderate. (Last visited 9/91.)

JANICE BAKER

hTC

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