Fashion Institute shows a Halston retrospective

October 30, 1991

NEW YORK - A fascinating view of an American fashion legend, "Halston: Absolute Modernism," went on exhibit Tuesday the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.

The show has been mounted to suggest that Halston, who died last year, was an enormously clever, deceptively simple designer. There are 105 outfits: fluid jersey dresses, ankle-length cashmere sets, swimsuit-back jump suits and slinky evening numbers. They are simplicity itself.

But on the walls, the patterns for the dresses elaborate, origami-like shapes have been framed like abstract paintings.

"I began with the prejudice that Halston had a few good ideas that he managed to transmit across the country," said Harold Koda, a co-curator of the show, with Richard Martin. "But I realized he was much more conceptual than that. He cut the patterns so that fabric falls on the bias across the body in an incredibly sensual way."

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