Snyder's Willow Grove, Hammonds Ferry Road, 789-1149. This...

DINING OUT. THE CRITICS' REPORT

October 26, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Sun The Sunday Sun

Snyder's Willow Grove, Hammonds Ferry Road, 789-1149. This is a fine, old Baltimore restaurant that cooks with respect for traditional methods, serves with a touch of hominess and generally lets you relax. Just off the Beltway in Anne Arundel County, Snyder's has been in business more than 50 years. We found it a great place for dining with children; the menu is varied, the service friendly and the pace not too slow for young diners. They especially liked the complimentary sharp cheese and crackers and the rich cream of crab soup. $$moderate. (Last visited 9/91.) Fiori, 100 Painters Mill Road, Owings Mills, 363-3131. If you haven't yet gotten the word, Fiori is now where the Country Fare used to be, and Enrico's is where Fiori used to be. Got that? Although Fiori sacrificed some country charm in the move, the larger, statelier quarters of the 18th century mansion are an asset. The menu offers both cream-drenched luxury and herb-kissed "spa" dishes which, in many cases, pack more flavor than dishes sporting three times the calories. $$moderate. (Last visited 9/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Nickel City Grill, Pratt Street Pavilion, Harborplace, 201 E. Pratt St., 752-0900. Dinner wasn't cheap -- for four of us, $128.46 before we added in the $24 tip. The money bought mediocre food, a table, four chairs, loud music and a view of the harbor. We loved the harbor, liked the popcorn shrimp and somewhat liked our crab cake. None of us would order soups again, or the Nickel City Clambake, or the rainbow trout, or a porterhouse steak, or Hannah's rotisserie chicken or desserts. Maybe we were jinxed. $$$expensive. (Last visited 8/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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