Josef's Country Inn, 2410 Pleasantville Road, Fallston...

DINING OUT THE CRITIC'S REPORT

October 12, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Sun The Sunday Sun

Josef's Country Inn, 2410 Pleasantville Road, Fallston, 877-7800. Turn off Route 1 onto Mountain Road in Harford County and the countryside becomes so rural and calming you feel almost transported to an earlier decade. Except for the noise, Josef's intensifies that feeling. The dining room is pretty and homey, but the tables are rather close, making the noise level relatively high. Still, the pace seems slower than at many restaurants. We had a dinner that was a tribute to good cooking, creative recipes and professional, but relaxed, service. Josef's menu offers several German specialties, such as Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten with spaetzle and Kassler Rippchen. It also affords a nice sampling of seafood, beef and veal. $$ 1/2 -- moderately expensive. (Last visited 9/91.) Blue Fox Inn, Route 355, Urbana, (301) 831-4878. Though not far from Baltimore and Frederick, the oddly named Urbana exemplifies rural charm. The Blue Fox shares this virtue; its menu is simple and American, its food ample and very good. Each entree (including such grandma specials as roast turkey and liver as well the trendier mako shark and chicken parmigiana) comes with appetizer, salad and homemade dessert, so bring a country-sized appetite. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 8/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Andalucia Restaurante, 12300 Wilkins Ave., Rockville, (301) 770-1880. Our meals at Andalucia were exceptionally good. It's a simple place, inside and out, but when $8.50 buys a delicious lunch of shrimp with onion, garlic, tomato and brandy, and $12.95 buys a glorious dinner trout with Spanish ham and capers, it's foolish to fuss over looks. Recommended: everything, which includes clams in green sauce, gazpacho, trout, hake, veal scaloppine with ham, green olives and sherry, a veal chop, and beautifully made Spanish desserts. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 8/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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