Jeno's Steaks


September 28, 1991|By Bruce Friedland

Baltimore and Annapolis Boulevard in Severna Park across from Dawson's. Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays; 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays. Call 544-1416.

In addition to fruits and vegetables, whole-grain breads and low-fat dairy products, any sensible diet, in my estimation, must include the fifth basic food group, the cheese steak sub.

We're talking steaming hot chopped steak from the grill, smothered with fried onions, dripping with provolone, dressed with sweet and hot peppers, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and oil and vinegar, all on a sub roll whose sole function is to hold everything together without getting in the way.

Jeno's Steaks has such a sandwich, in the grand and geographically correct tradition of "south Philly." Jeno's menu states that only 100 percent rib eye steak is used in its subs. (Which, of course, raises the question as to what everybody else is using. But then, some questions are better left unanswered.)

Jeno's was previously Jake's Steaks, but changed hands last April, according to the new owner. The establishment is small, with no eat-in facilities, and the menu, aside from its signature offering, consists largely of other grilled subs and hoagies. There are also a number of salads on the menu -- Italian Supreme ($3.30), antipasto ($3.65) and Greek salad ($2.75) -- but on a recent visit the owner had to consult a piece of paper to remember all the ingredients for the Greek salad.

So forget everything else and get a steak sub, or better yet, a cheese steak. The standard steak sub costs $3.60. With provolone and the other necessities mentioned above, the price is $4.55. The boardwalk-style fries (small, $1.50) are more than respectable.

Jeno's doesn't make desserts; you'll have to get them elsewhere, if you're still hungry.

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