Cacao Lane, 8066 Main St., Ellicott City, 461-1378. Cacao...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS REPORT

August 31, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

Cacao Lane, 8066 Main St., Ellicott City, 461-1378. Cacao Lane is a Howard County favorite that fills three buildings -- each with a different front -- on Ellicott City's Main Street. It is dark and winding with stone walls and mismatched chandeliers. Cacao Lane has a small but interesting menu, with chicken and seafood predominating, and a sampling of steaks, lamb chops and veal dishes. The night we were there, a sheet of hand-written specials accompanied the menu. The food was uneven. I had scallops, perfectly tender in a garlic-wine sauce, but an accompanying rice pilaf that was so hard and tasteless it should never have left the kitchen. $$moderate. (Last visited 8/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS First Wok, Glenmont Towers, 6920 Donachie Road, 296-1688. First Wok offers something different -- not only the carved doors and stained glass left over from a previous restaurant incarnation, but interesting dishes rarely seen here, including delightful Crab Rangoon -- crisp won tons filled with gingery crab -- and Taiwan duck served with steamed white Chinese buns. Less to our taste were the conventional Continental flavors of sizzling beef and scallops, and the peculiar fried eggplant in sweet citrusy sauce. $$moderate. (Last visited 8/91.)

JANICE BAKER Loveton Cafe, 72 Loveton Circle, Sparks, 472-2080. The look of this new cafe on upper York Road is tentative and spare. The food is simple, satisfying, and moderately inexpensive. Lump crab was fresh, sole was classic fish-house plain. A pretty puree of red peppers moistened a slice of overcooked salmon. A superb crab cake shared a plate with a somewhat mealy piece of filet mignon. Veal scaloppine were buttery rich, rices and broccoli fresh. Desserts were duds, but dirt cheap at 95 cents. Call to check liquor and credit card arrangements. $$moderate. (Last visited 6/91.)

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