Ritchie Highway, Severna Park...


August 10, 1991|By Bruce Friedland

TRATTORIA MAMMA LAURA 478 A Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Call 544-9977. Is there really a Mamma Laura padding around in the kitchen, mincing garlic and grating Parmesan cheese? Who knows. But there can be little doubt about the pride this upscale carryout takes in its ethnic menu.

"Everybody can make pizza and Italian food," the menu states, "but to make it right you've got to be Italian, or learn from an Italian."

Of course, you don't really need such a declaration to understand that Mamma Laura's Italian dishes are authentic. The red sauce used in many items is unmistakably homemade, subtle, spicy, not too sweet. And you won't find ersatz pizza here, either, no wimpy-crusted, conveyor belt-produced pies that only a Ninja turtle could love.

You can choose from regular pizza ($9.95 for a 16-inch) or the thick-crusted Sicilian variety ($11.35 for a 16-inch). Toppings are a little pricey at $1.70 each for large pies. But unlike many pizzerias, Mamma Laura's will gladly sell you slices ($1.40 for regular, $1.50 for Sicilian).

Other items on the menu include hot and cold subs (Italian cold cut, $3.95), antipasto ($5.45), spaghetti and other full-fledged dinners of veal, chicken and seafood (dinner prices range from about $8 to $11.50 and include salad and bread).

If you're not in the mood to carry out, Mamma Laura's has a dozen or so tables. The atmosphere is warm, and the food is very good.


Baltimore Sun Articles
Please note the green-lined linked article text has been applied commercially without any involvement from our newsroom editors, reporters or any other editorial staff.