TRATTORIA MAMMA LAURA 478 A Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Call 544-9977. Is there really a Mamma Laura padding around in the kitchen, mincing garlic and grating Parmesan cheese? Who knows. But there can be little doubt about the pride this upscale carryout takes in its ethnic menu.
"Everybody can make pizza and Italian food," the menu states, "but to make it right you've got to be Italian, or learn from an Italian."
Of course, you don't really need such a declaration to understand that Mamma Laura's Italian dishes are authentic. The red sauce used in many items is unmistakably homemade, subtle, spicy, not too sweet. And you won't find ersatz pizza here, either, no wimpy-crusted, conveyor belt-produced pies that only a Ninja turtle could love.