Paolo's, Light Street Pavilion, Harborplace, 539-7060...


August 10, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Sun The Sunday Sun

Paolo's, Light Street Pavilion, Harborplace, 539-7060. While Harborplace is fine for fried dough and stand-up hot dogs, it is inappropriate for Paolo's, which specializes in fine Italian food and pizza cooked in a wood-burning stove. Our meal was excellent. With each course, we realized that this was superlative food -- delightfully innovative, creatively seasoned, beautifully presented -- a treat to the senses. The Tortellini Rose ($9.95), rich with basil and Gorgonzola cheese, was outstanding, as were the desserts. Paolo's is, however, bustling and noisy; the distractions are many. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 7/91.) Szechuan Best, 8625 Liberty Road, 521-0020. Szechuan Best may look like a generic "family restaurant," but in addition to the standard fare, this friendly place offers daring specials and seasonal treats that might pique the interest of real Sichuanese families. Best dishes in our summertime dinner included richly sweet asparagus and corn soup and ginger-perfumed, soft-shell crab whose flavors, despite exotic seasonings, hadn't traveled too far from the Chesapeake. $$moderate. (Last visited 7/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Windows on the Bay, 1402 Colony Road, Pasadena, 255-1413. The atmosphere was country/shore, which means you can go in your jeans. The view from the deck is boats, water, houses, woods and traces of Sparrows Point, far across the Patapsco. From a varied menu, we sampled a fish soup, an appetizer sampler plate, stuffed veal, and two grilled fishes -- salmon and barracuda. We liked the light handling of things, simple sauces, heaps of match-stick sized vegetables, and fresh-cut, fresh-fried French fries. It's 30 minutes from town. $$$expensive. (Last visited 6/91.)


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