St. Paul St. Open 11 a.m...


July 20, 1991|By Mary Maushard


3111 St. Paul St. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sundays to Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Call 889-0003.

My daughter first tasted chicken with broccoli from the Orient Express about three years ago. She's been a fan of the dish ever since.

A return visit reminded me how the dish won her over: The large pieces of chicken are extremely tender, and the sauce light enough not to put off a finicky youngster. She even ate the broccoli, which was tender and flavorful.

The Orient Express' food is generally pleasing, in a traditional way, whatever your age. We found a recent carryout meal very satisfying indeed.

In addition to the chicken with broccoli ($6.75), we found the sauteed green beans Sichuan ($5.75) crunchy and peppery, but not too hot, and the jumbo shrimp with vegetables ($7.95) very good. It was a lovely blend of tender shrimp and colorful, crisp vegetables. My husband particularly liked the hearty pork lo mein ($5.25).

The fried won tons ($3.25 for six) were tasty without being greasy. And the accompanying sauce was flavored with fruit -- plums, I think -- without being cloyingly sweet. I wished I had more won tons to dip in it.

The Orient Express's menu offers a pretty traditional selection of Chinese fare in varying degrees of heat. You can eat in at this Charles Village restaurant, carry out or call for delivery after 5 p.m.

The prices seem a little steep, although most entrees are available in regular and large portions. But the food does seem to be of high quality and carefully prepared -- making the prices more palatable.

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