Dici Naz Vellegia, 204 E. Joppa Road, Towson, 821-8888...

DINING OUT -- THE CRITICS' REPORT

June 29, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

Dici Naz Vellegia, 204 E. Joppa Road, Towson, 821-8888. Velleggia's in Towson is a rambling restaurant with a large bar and several dining rooms, some with windows on Joppa Road. The views give the rooms a nice, open feel. The largely Italian menu does bow briefly to those whose tastes run away from this cuisine: crab cakes, steak, prime rib and fresh seafood. We left those offerings for another time and put our stock in the Italian fare. I particularly enjoyed the chicken cacciatore in a white wine sauce ($13.50) and my husband loved his appetizer of clams Caracas ($6.25). We found the service good, after a slow start; the atmosphere slightly sophisticated; the clientele more dressed up than down. $$ 1/2 --moderately expensive. (Last visited

LYNN WILLIAMS The Fishery, 1717 Eastern Ave., 327-9340. Perhaps there was a language problem. (The Fishery is, after all, the former Spanish Meson.) Whatever the reason, much of what we ate there -- including an appetizer and an entree -- was different from what we had ordered. Still, even if our dinner contained a few surprises, we liked everything we tasted, from tender fried calamari and a whopping steamed seafood combination to oysters and lobster luxuriously crab-stuffed. $$--moderate. (Last visited 6/91.)

JANICE BAKER Churchill's, 225 N. Liberty, 727-0910. Prices are fairly steep, with a number of entrees in the $23-$26 range. We found dishes that were visually handsome but not always strong on substance. A grilled redfish filet was generous in size, but in taste and smell faintly old. Veal medallions were flavorful and tender, in a bland and characterless sauce, while beef Churchill was beef Wellington, a tricky dish that generally doesn't come off. It didn't. Vegetables were one of the meal's pleasures. Apple pie was another. $$$expensive. (Last visited 4/91.)

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