Angelo's lives up to its claims

June 16, 1991|By Linda Geeson | Linda Geeson,Ocean City Bureau of The Sun

Angelo's claims to be "Little Italy in Ocean City," and it's an honest boast. Operated by the Musiani family, this little restaurant serves hearty, delicious Italian meals in a cozy and inviting setting with great service. It's not fancy, but it's nearly perfect.

One quirky thing: When we were first seated, we found the tables uncomfortably high -- they almost made us feel like children seated at the grown-ups' table. The meal was so satisfying, however, that by its conclusion we had nearly forgotten this minor annoyance.

We got off to a good start with our appetizers. The peppers Angelo ($3) featured sweet red peppers in a light dressing with Italian seasonings and a hint of Parmesan cheese. The antipasto for one ($3.25) was an attractive arrangement of prosciutto, salami, mozzarella and anchovies on a bed of lettuce and tomato, with hard-boiled egg, olives and capers.

The minestrone ($1.75 for a cup) was piping hot and stuffed with fresh vegetables. We also enjoyed the accompanying Italian bread, which was crusty, steaming hot and delicious.

Just a few bites into her entree, my companion proclaimed Angelo's version of eggplant parmigiana ($10.95) the best she'd ever had. The eggplant was moist, distinct and without the overbaked dryness that's a risk with this mild vegetable.

Another companion ordered the baked catch of the day Francese; instead, the fish was served Italiano ($13.95 either way). He didn't really mind. The flaky orange roughy was wreathed by a sauce rich in fresh diced tomatoes, zucchini, mushrooms, onions and capers.

The hearty chicken cacciatore (specially priced that night at $9.95) had slices of green pepper, mushrooms and onions in a fresh tomato sauce that coated tender chicken wings, legs and breasts. Like all our entrees, it was accompanied by a dish of spaghetti with that same fresh tomato sauce that one friend said reminded her of the sauce her Italian grandmother used to make.

Angelo's desserts ($3 each) are baked fresh on the premises. We loved the chocolate-chip cannoli, an interesting apple-walnut cheesecake topped by whipped cream and a curl of white chocolate, and a rum cake with distinct layers of rum-moist cake, chocolate and vanilla pudding.

Angelo's

28th Street and Coastal Highway, 289-6522.

Hours: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express.

Reservations: Recommended.

Features: Italian food.

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