If it's simple, fresh and delicious, it's SIMPATICA

June 02, 1991|By Charlyne Varkonyi

Johanne Killeen and her husband George Germon have a sixth sense for knowing how we want to eat in the '90s -- food that's fresh, flavorful, unpretentious and simple to prepare.

Indeed, these young chefs/restaurateurs have brought us back to the basics with their updated adaptations of country French and rustic Italian food seasoned with Yankee ingenuity and prepared with native New England ingredients.

Until recently, their disciples had to travel to Providence, R.I., to sample the much-heralded fare at their two restaurants -- Lucky's and Al Forno. Local folks come and they wait up to two hours to sample the food at Al Forno, hailed as one of the best regional restaurants in America by John Mariani in Playboy magazine in 1987. Tourists travel from Boston and New York City to experience the cuisine of the chefs who were listed among Food & Wine magazine's 10 best new chefs in America in 1988 and to dine at Lucky's, which the magazine named as one of the best new restaurants. They come to meet the couple, who have been honored twice by the James Beard Foundation -- as Rising Stars of America and as Great Regional Chefs of America.

But now anyone, no matter where they live, can get a taste of the Killeen/Germon style. Everything from their heralded grilled pizzas to their grilled veal tenderloins with croutons and fresh corn is included in their first cookbook, "Cucina Simpatica: Robust Trattoria Cooking" (HarperCollins Publishers, $25), a compilation of the Italian food served at Al Forno. Johanne Killeen says Americans have gone through a tremendous food )) evolution that took us from the fussy, pretentious food of nouvelle cuisine to the down-to-earth style of "cucina simpatica," simple Italian food that you can eat every day without getting bored. The simpatica style relies on good quality olive oil, garlic and Mediterranean herbs mixed together with the freshest and best ingredients they can find locally.

The food has complex flavors, but it's simple to prepare. Anyone with a smidgen of talent can make these dishes. No degree in the culinary arts is required.

"The real skill is in caring about choosing your food and preparing your food," Johanne said in a telephone interview. "It doesn't require elaborate preparation. There really is no substitute for freshness and for quality."

But fresh ingredients need some direction and the cucina simpatica influences were based on their culinary travels through Italy and France, where grilled foods made a lasting impression. One of the things Mr. Germon remembered most was the raised-hearth fireplaces in the trattorias, where a square grill with legs and a handle were placed over a fire made from grapevines, TC twigs and small pieces of wood. He loved the smell of the olive oil dripping into the fire and the food flavored with the hint of smoke.

But Mr. Germon and Ms. Killeen found that some of the best-tasting pizzas came from restaurants in Italy where pizzas were grilled in the kind of oven they didn't have in their restaurants -- a large and expensive wood-burning brick oven.

They wanted to get the same result -- thin and crispy crusts with sparse but flavorful toppings -- by using a professional indoor charcoal grill. And after much experimentation, their most famous dish -- the grilled pizza -- was born.

"The flavors were better on the grill because the pizza was in direct contact with the smoke and the heat," Ms. Killeen said. "In a wood-burning oven, the curl of smoke doesn't often lick the food like it does on a grill."

Anyone can eventually re-create grilled pizza at home, she added, but it does take patience to master the technique that Mr. Germon developed.

*You can use anything from a hibachi to a large charcoal grill -- merely make smaller pizzas on the smaller grills. But forget gas grills. Even gas grills fueled by wood chips won't work because the dough cooks too slowly and becomes tough.

*The secret is in building the right fire. You must use hardwood charcoal, not briquettes. Build your fire on one side of the grill only -- so you have intense heat concentrated on one side and a cool area on the other. The cool area is necessary as a resting place so you can add toppings without the dough burning.

*Be careful when stretching your dough; you do not want small holes to appear. But if holes do appear, don't panic. Just make sure you do not drizzle any oil or filling into them.

*When you are lifting the dough onto the grill, chances are good that it will stretch. Try to work as close to the grill as possible to minimize this problem.

*Set the timer. If the cheese isn't melted and the topping isn't bubbling after eight minutes, either your fire isn't hot enough or you added too much topping. Try again. It takes some practice.

The following is a menu from "Cucina Simpatica" that's perfect for summer entertaining.


Salad Al Forno

Grilled pizza with fresh summer herbs and tomato

Cannoli cream with fresh berries

Salad Al Forno

Serves six to eight.

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