The Admiral Fell Inn, 888 S. Broadway, 522-7377. This is a...


May 11, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

The Admiral Fell Inn, 888 S. Broadway, 522-7377. This is a sophisticated restaurant -- in appearance, service and most of all in tastes. The lighting is indirect, the colors muted, the exposed brick a charming reminder that this building, once a seafarer's YMCA, is far from new. The menu is well planned with a wine recommended for each entree. The food is interesting and unusual, innovative without being affected. We particularly enjoyed the Tuscan white bean soup and the Oysters Three Ways, a beautiful plate of oysters Rockefeller, Casino and Chesapeake. $$$expensive. (Last visited 3/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Tamber's, 3327 St. Paul St., 243-0383. As someone who thanks the restaurant gods daily for the gourmet and ethnic revolutions of the past couple of decades, I can't get too excited about the current craze for the (usually bland) fare of the 1950s. Still, the Tamberino family has tackled the theme with high spirits and a minimum of kitsch. The '50s decor is nifty and the food is respectable soda shop/diner fare -- with a few updates to let people know it isn't really 1957 anymore. $inexpensive. (Last visited 4/91.)

JANICE BAKER Syrumie Cafe, 3219 Eastern Ave., 563-2787. At this new, unpretentious Middle Eastern eatery, the chef goes almost too light on garlic and spicing, but we left enthusiastic about several dishes, including the "Syrumie special," with babaganush, two falafel patties, lamb and chicken kebabs, and a kofta kebab made of seasoned ground beef and lamb. Try kosharie, too, an unusual dish of fresh salad over sauteed onion, tomato sauce, cooked lentils and elbow pasta. Don't leave without sampling the glorious sweets. $$moderate. (Last visited 3/91.)

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