The Baltimore Grille at the Omni Hotel, 385-6601. Th...

DINING OUT THE CRITICS' REPORT

April 27, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Sun The Sunday Sun

The Baltimore Grille at the Omni Hotel, 385-6601. Th Baltimore Grille, which opened in September, seems to be taking its place among a new generation of hotel restaurants that court local diners, as well as the in-house trade, with serious food and service. The grille is an uptown restaurant tucked into a corner of the Omni Hotel with a bold menu, soothing surroundings and warmly solicitous service. The food is good, too. The menu offers two fixed-price dinners ($39.95) with each course accompanied by an appropriate wine and an a la carte section, featuring Black Angus Beef and lobster among the offerings. $$$expensive. (Last visited 3/91.) Bamboo House, Pratt Street Pavilion, Harborplace, 625-1191A clever restaurateur needs a gimmick or two to stand out from the pack, and the Bamboo House has more than its share of attractions, starting with its harbor location. Glamorous surroundings make this a festive dining destination, and the Szechuan cooking has class. What will really make diners take notice, though, is the new sushi bar: the lure of sushi in a ravishingly pretty waterside location is near-irresistible. $$moderate. (Last visited 4/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Tersiguel's, 8293 Main St., Ellicott City, 465-4004. Housed in carefully restored, freshly painted, three-story home of a once-upon-a-time mayor of Ellicott City, Tersiguel's feels destined to do well. We found a dull fish soup, but liked a vibrant, coarse pate, scallops in Nantua sauce, an ungrandmotherly but delicious Cornish hen grand mere and sauteed sweetbreads in a pleasing shrimp sauce. Best of all -- a swordfish steak with herbs, tomato, onion and cucumber, and for dessert, a perfect creme brulee. $$$expensive. (Last visited 2/91.)

JANICE BAKER

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