Only The Best, Ellicott City, 461-1278. A restaurant with...


April 13, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening Sun The Sun The Sunday Sun

Only The Best, Ellicott City, 461-1278. A restaurant with a name that sets so lofty a standard almost invites criticism. And while I wouldn't call it unequivocally "the best," this charming Ellicott City newcomer tries hard, and succeeds more often than not. Only The Best is a pleasantly attractive restaurant with a small but wide-ranging menu. We chose Salmon and Crab in Parchment ($17.95) and Wahoo in Beaujolais Sauce ($15.95) as our entrees and found them simply, but deliciously, prepared. The desserts, all homemade, are outstanding. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 2/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Fisherman's Exchange, 2025 E. Joppa Road, Carney, 665-8800. There's a "Diet Watchers" category on the Fisherman's Exchange menu, but don't be fooled: huge portions and plenty of extras make this more likely a place to watch your diet wave bye-bye. The restaurant is pretty and decorous despite the strip-mall setting, but the food is erratic; small things (fresh salad dressings, terrific fried clams) won approval, but the grilled mako was dull and lobster au gratin was tough. $$moderate. (Last visited 3/91.)

JANICE BAKER Aldo's, 2402 Pleasantville Road, Fallston, 879-5000. Aldo's was packed with devoted-looking regulars, but our experience was gastronomically unremarkable. Pasta and fagioli soup was pleasant, but not tough tortellini, too heavily oiled fettuccine, or mass-production-style salad dressings. Chicken piccata seemed terribly plain, while veal francese suffered from an overly bold lemon sauce and harshly seasoned bread crumbs. Our best entree was a fish stew of white fish, clams, lobster, mussels, and potato. Desserts? Routine. $$$expensive. (Last visited 1/91.)

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