Passover has always been the holiday I love best. But I enjoyed it more than ever during the years I lived in Israel as a college student. Back in my previous home in Washington, Passover used to be a time for a family get-together and good traditional Ashkenazic food. But in Israel there was the excitement of discovering the holiday specialties of my many Sephardic in-laws. To me their cooking was exotic and intriguing.
One memorable Passover I celebrated was at my mother's new home in Jerusalem. We decided to prepare the Seder, or ceremonial Passover dinner, together with several of our relatives. Each person promised to cook a favorite dish. That would make it easier for everyone and would give us all a chance to taste each other's food.
Since my mother follows all the Orthodox customs, we began by bringing out both sets of Passover dishes and silverware -- those for dairy meals and those for meat -- to replace the usual dishes. Using these special plates that appeared on the table during just one week of the year added to the feeling of festivity.
Then my mother and I went to the bustling Mahane Yehudah market to buy the ritual foods for the Seder: celery, horseradish, and apples and nuts for making haroset. This was the busiest time of the year, as everyone was getting ready for the Jewish festival that has the greatest focus on cooking. Women were discussing their Passover menus while trying to keep their children from handling the produce. There was a certain feeling of anticipation and, even though our shopping took longer than usual, it was great fun.
On the morning of the Seder, we began cooking. My sister-in-law, of Moroccan origin, prepared a colorful, exuberant first course: a salad of sweet and hot peppers sauteed with tomatoes and garlic, often referred to in Israel simply as "Moroccan salad." A diced vegetable salad was the responsibility of my Israeli-born brother-in-law, since he had the patience to cut the vegetables in tiny cubes, and this made his version of this refreshing Mediterranean salad the best.
Although lamb and chicken are frequent choices for the Seder main course, that year we voted for turkey, which is widely available in Israel and is a popular entree for festive dinners. My mother-in-law, who is from Yemen, made a wonderful, aromatic matzo and mushroom stuffing seasoned with garlic and cilantro. Her sister brought an unusual treat -- round homemade matzos, and an elegant embroidered cloth to cover them.
