Hersh's Orchard Inn, 1528 E. Joppa Road, 823-0384. Hersh's...

DINING OUT--THE CRITIC'S REPORT

March 09, 1991|By MARY MAUSHARD | MARY MAUSHARD,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

Hersh's Orchard Inn, 1528 E. Joppa Road, 823-0384. Hersh's Orchard Inn is a Saturday night kind of place. A little bustling. A little sophisticated. A little luxurious and a little crowded. A downtown kind of place, in the suburbs. The Saturday night crowd got younger as the evening wore on, but never let up. This is a place with a loyal following. And why? The food is good. The Chicken Contadine ($13.95) was a marriage of fresh, tasty chicken and beautifully prepared vegetables in a light sauce. A wonderful dish! The service was a little perfunctory, probably because of the crowd. $$$expensive. (Last visited 1/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Tabrizi's, 1026 S. Charles St., 752-3810. In popular parlance, "ethnic" dining once meant cheap, spicy food served in minimal surroundings. But multiculturalism has hit the food scene with a vengeance, and the result is a place like Tabrizi's, where diners can enjoy terrific, exotic food in a lovely dining room with 'N hydrangeas on the wallpaper and chamber music playing softly in the background. The cuisine comes from all around the Mediterranean, from southern France and Italy to the Middle East, combined with the chef's own light, contemporary contributions. $$moderate. (Last visited 2/91.)

JANICE BAKER Strapazza, 10-12 Allegheny Ave., Towson, 296-5577. Strapazza means really, really crazy. Fun to say, fun to go to. The menu lists pizzabilities and pastabilities. The white pizza was the colors of the Italian flag, the wine was from a store around the corner, the pasta had lots of tomato sauce and the homemade lasagna also had lots of tomato sauce, cheese, and noodles. The cannolis were from Vaccaro's. Decaffeinated cappucinos were terrific. Everything was inexpensive, cheerful, unpretentious and family-friendly. $$moderate. (Last visited 12/90.)

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