Looking Back Beauty Trends Of The '60s Resurface With A Natural Twist

February 24, 1991|By KAREN HARROP

Say goodbye to the Farrah Fawcett mane and make way for pin curls and flips! The '60s are back, but with an added softness and swing. The influence of the mod, mod decade is also turning

up in makeup, but only in the most subtle way.

HAIR TODAY Hair colors are more natural and styles are short, fluid creations with heavy layering and high crowns. Wigs and hairpieces, usually in funky colors, add a fun touch.

"Brunette is the hot color and the big story is still short hair,says Gloria Brennan, owner of Gloria Brennan, the Salon. "Bleached blond hair and highlights are out."

"It's the browning of the world," says Cathy Feliciano, public relations manager for the Sebastian International beauty company. "Seventy-five percent of the world is brunette and we're going to see more of these natural colors."

She believes women are tired of having their hair colored all the time and more concerned about the damage that might be caused.

Beverly Alvarez, chairwoman of the Artistic Council for Zoto, also predicts that hair color will be more natural in the '90s with less highlighting to produce blond hair. "We'll see more solid brown tones," she says.

If you must color your hair, experts are recommending hair stains, semi-permanent colors that condition as well as color, such as the Cellophanes Plus introduced by Sebastian International. As well as Sebastian, a number of companies are creating environmentally safe tints and hair products.

In hairstyles, the Zotos Artistic Council has created a hair collection, Expansions, all featuring short, heavily layered hair and a soft, round shape.

While '60s hairdressers back-combed, or teased, hair to achieve height and volume, today's designers are using perms, gels and mousses, and finger stirring.

Finger stirring involves using a gel at the roots and lightly massaging the scalp and roots to add lift while leaving the ends free and loose to be pin curled or dried with a diffuser.

Other women are leaving their hair long, wearing it in a flip or a French roll with bangs hanging in front, a la Ivana Trump, says Lola Jones, owner of Lola's Inc. beauty salon in Mount Washington.

"Either way, the hair is still worn high on the crown," she says.

Wigs and hairpieces are another way to create a '60s look, either to add length to short hair or just to have a different look.

"Hairpieces are used more as an accessory now," says Ms. Jones. "Wigs now are supposed to look like wigs, not like real hair, and they come in funky colors such as gray, white, red and black."

Big, wide headbands are also back. Made with psychedelic colors and Pucci prints, the bands are worn partially on the forehead, with the hair piled high at the crown.

ON THE FACE OF IT Think pink. Cool, sensuous pink. And soft corals, clear oranges, and icy blues and silvers for your spring palette. The '60s influence is strong for 1991, but more flirty, more natural, less complicated.

"What was hard and fake in the '60s is soft and real for the '90s," says Ms. Feliciano. "It's a softer version of the theatrical; we're using fake eyelashes, but trimming them and using them only on the outer corner of the eyes, and heavier, frosted eyelids than we have had."

And "blush is making a big comeback," says Ms. Jones of LolInc. "Even though no one except fashion models really stopped using it."

The new spring look also calls for depth and contrast for a more natural look, as opposed to the more superficial, mask-like makeup of the '60s.

While both work and play time looks call for clear, cool colors, these same colors can create a glamorous evening look. Use three shades of liner on different parts of the eye or layer your lipstick, maybe using a clear brown, a blue-red, and finishing off with a coral, says Ida Stewart, a vice president for Estee Lauder. "Just like impressionist painters put colors on top of each other to create depth."

Estee Lauder is also emphasizing simplicity in its products by making several dual-purpose products, such as Just Blush, a powder used for cheek and eye color. For contrast, emphasize the eyes or the lips. Subdued, soft lips can play up strong icy eyes, or vibrant, shimmering lips can take the spotlight from cool, innocent eyes. The new palettes also show off healthy, glowing skin.

"What's most important is healthy, translucent skin, not the eyes or lips," says Oliver Echaudemaison, an international makeup designer for Givenchy, in a recent W update.

Ms. Stewart agrees, "Our skin is so good these days, so much better than it used to be. We've learned to clean and protect our skin, and to create a look without damaging our skin." The 1991 look is a healthy look, with lots of added details, she says.

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