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Bicycle treks allow visitors to enjoy the country's scenery, wildlife, people up close and at a leisurely pace

TOURING KENYA ON TWO WHEELS

February 03, 1991|By Kathleen Bennett

Cycling "on the wild side" is a supreme adventure. Warriors and wildebeest, mud huts dotting vast savannahs, and smoldering volcanoes are typical sites during a bicycle safari in Kenya.

The real Africa still exists. Beyond the national parks crowded with tourists and four-wheel-drive vehicles are back roads leading cyclists to some of Kenya's most spectacular wildlife, peoples and scenery.

Imagine pedaling up a steep escarpment overlooking the Great Rift Valley. Ahead are the snowy peaks of Mount Kenya; below, the blue waters of Lake Nakuru with its thousands of resident flamingos. Zebra and giraffe graze by the roadside. In the distance, a Masai warrior chants as he follows ancient nomadic routes across the plains. Such sights are indeed frequent, though never commonplace, when riding Kenya's back roads.

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No where is the panoply of peoples, wildlife and geography more accessible or diverse. Since the pulse of Africa is unhurried, journeying slowly allows one to get in sync with the people and their friendly, relaxed ways. Exposed to the elements, riders experience the sights and sounds of Africa vividly. The senses are released and Kenya can be savored.

If vacationing among the warriors and wildebeest is beginning to sound attractive, consider the organized tour options available. They vary widely in daily mileage covered, equipment needed and costs.

But before selecting a tour, serious introspection is in order. If you enjoy riding a few hours daily, appreciate a support vehicle that carries luggage and tired cyclists, and look forward to gourmet cuisine and hot showers, opt for a luxury bicycle safari. These excursions, costing up to $1,000 per week, combine exercise with convenience and give participants a chance to stay in Kenya's finest lodges.

Although budget organized tours can be the more physically demanding, not all are designed for hard-core cyclists. Costs are trimmed by participants furnishing their own equipment, taking meals in small "hotelis," camping or staying in modest inns and forgoing the sag wagon. These tours cost about $300-$500 per week, including guide. For those who want to get in shape fast and do not mind a bit of roughing it, a budget safari is an excellent choice.

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