Russell's Ltd., 1600 Frederick Road, 744-6315. The...


January 19, 1991|By Mary Maushard | Mary Maushard,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

Russell's Ltd., 1600 Frederick Road, 744-6315. The building that houses Russell's in Catonsville has had nearly as many lives as the proverbial cat, beginning as a horse-car waiting room in the 1860s and winding up as a disco before becoming a semi-suburban, semi-country restaurant. The superb service was not matched by the food, which was inconsistent and a bit too high priced for the surroundings. The Broiled Flounder stuffed with Crab Imperial ($17.95) was outstanding and the dinner's obvious high point. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 11/90.)

Lynn Williams Leilani's of Hawaii, 889 N. Howard St., 225-2610. Leilani-- Wallace, Maui-born doyenne of Lloyd's Cafe, a Hawaiian-Continental cult favorite in Pigtown, has moved her base of operations to a stately building on Antique Row. Stained glass and sarongs don't really go together, and the food -- including Polynesian wedding-reception appetizers and crab imperial-laden mahi-mahi -- can be overproduced, but for a touch of island warmth, Leilani's can't be bettered. $$$expensive. (Last visited 12/90.)

Janice Baker Mount Airy Plantation, 8714 Rosaryville Road, Upper Marlboro, (301) 856-1860. Mount Airy's new management and new chef look interesting. We liked a delicate lobster consomme, a salad of walnut oil-dressed bitter arugula and baby green beans over medium rare slices of pigeon, and duck forcemeat, rare duck, duck liver, cabbage and pistachios wrapped in phyllo. Our best entree was roasted salmon on a bed of cabbage under a cloud of "leek crisps." Weaknesses: A paucity of vegetables, starches, and imaginative desserts. $$$expensive. (Last visited 10/90.)

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