Ristorante Tacchetti, 1012 Eastern Ave., 727-2437. This...

DINING OUT: THE CRITICS REPORT

January 12, 1991|By Mary Maushard | Mary Maushard,The Evening SunThe Sun The Sunday Sun

Ristorante Tacchetti, 1012 Eastern Ave., 727-2437. This eastern-most outpost of Little Italy is more like a cafe than a pasta palace. One long room with a bar at the front, Tacchetti's is pretty much a case of what you see when you walk in is what you get. The atmosphere is cozy, the service friendly and the food nicely done. The Swordfish Veneziana ($16) was beautifully prepared and unusual in that the swordfish was sliced more thinly than usual. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 10/90.)

Lynn Williams Fannie's, 6826 Harford Road, 254-1060. Fans of Casa Giannerini, Parkville's answer to Little Italy, will be cheered to note that there are plenty of pastas and parmigianas on the menu at Fannie's, the Casa's tasteful Continental replacement. French onion soup, sole Florentine, chicken a la Fannie and homemade strudel were nice, although the sole's champagne sauce and the saganaki were spoiled by too much alcohol, and the vegetables were poor relations indeed. $$moderate. (Last visited 12/90.)

Janice Baker Crossroads Restaurant, Cross Keys Inn, 5100 Falls Road, 532-6900. Crossroads' food is not what it was, it's better. Appetizer sausages lacked juiciness and flavor, and chewy snails had an acid aftertaste, but the soup of the day offered spice and substance. Two entrees proved a chef was in command -- crab cakes, and steak Anderson, a New York sirloin strip with lump crab and mushrooms. We skipped a dull potato, but ate our other vegetables, and frankly loved a caramel apple ** flan and a frozen raspberry souffle. $$$expensive. (Last visited 10/90.)

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