Hacienda Mexican Restaurant, 4840 Belair Road...

DINING OUT: THE CRITICS REPORT

December 22, 1990|By Mary Maushard | Mary Maushard,The Evening Sun Tersiguel's, 8293 Main St., Ellicott City, 465-4004. The Sun CoChin, 800 N. Charles Street, 332-0332. The Sunday Sun

Hacienda Mexican Restaurant, 4840 Belair Road, 488-9447.

Mexican food seems appealing to youngsters as well as many grown-ups. And the Hacienda is one of the best places in the area to enjoy it. The food is flavorful, the servings large, the prices reasonable and the surroundings festive. Purists would say the Hacienda's food is more Tex-Mex than Mexican, and they would be at least partially right. But amid the tacos and enchiladas are some traditional old-country favorites, such as mole poblano. And the Fried Ice Cream is a treat. $inexpensive. (Last visited 8/90.) Tersiguel's is a homecoming for Fernand Tersiguel in more ways than one. The new restaurant, not far from where his Chez Fernand once stood, has a homey appeal and lots of family memorabilia. The food is country French, satisfying and accessible. Standouts included quietly superb vichyssoise, duck with a bold sauce of peppercorns, olives and Beaujolais, and chocolate cake that tasted like a gift from the angels.

$$$expensive. (Last visited 11/90.)

Lynn Williams Goodbye, Mt. Vernon Grill. Hello, CoChin, Baltimore's first almost Vietnamese restaurant. Fresh-tasting spring rolls wrapped in lettuce and dipped in nuoc mam made delicious finger food, but "crystal fish" consisted of unidentifiable white fish filets in a simple cornstarch-and-citrus juice pudding sauce, and curried chicken was overcooked. We met the dare of a beef dish "too heavily seasoned for many Western palates," and ate sweetened chilies until our eyeglasses steamed. $$moderate. (Last visited 11/90.)

Janice Baker

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