Some words to the wise male peacock

December 12, 1990|By Knight-Ridder Newspapers

Although the fashion minds at Gieves & Hawkes makers of traditionally tailored men's suits are too conservative for our tastes, we believe that, when in doubt, conservative is much more appealing than outlandish. Since we'll all be dressing up a bit more during the holiday season and probably picking up a few additions to our wardrobes (did someone say recession?), we offer several men's styling tips from Gieves & Hawkes along with a few of our own favorites:

* Buy the best you can afford. Two great suits will last longer and look better than four cheap ones.

* Be aware of details that make for a sharp appearance. Allow a bit of shirt cuff to show below a jacket sleeve. Wear suspenders with a suit, to avoid bulges from belt buckles.

* A pocket square should complement the ensemble, not match the tie.

* Don't try to jam a Windsor knot between the points of a narrow collar. Collar size should dictate the tie knot used.

*

Larger than real life and cheaper: In the real world, clothes make neither men nor women, but in the land of movies, they play a major role in creating a character. In "reversal of fortune," the story of Claus and Sunny Von Bulow, costume designer Judianna Makovsky had to transfer the rich personalities of two real people onto the screen. She chose designer Nino Cerruti to outfit Jeremy Iron's Claus in a Savile Row style of dress. But Glenn Close's Sunny dressed in couture, and dropping $20,000 each on hundreds of evening gowns and suits could break a film budget. Instead, the costume studio designed gowns and had them made for $4,000 or $5,000.

*

Latest designer label: Michael Jordan?

When celebrities decide to plaster their names all over things just for the recognition factor, well, we get all huffy. The most recent example is Michael Jordan. We're certain Jordan knows basketball. But when the menswear trade publication DNR reported that he had formed a partnership to develop a line of formal wear and clothing, we were fed up.

The formal wear is expected to be ready for spring 1991.

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