LEDO PIZZA, 552 E. Ritchie Highway, Severna Park, 544-3344. Open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight.
If you graduated from the University of Maryland at College Park, chances are you satisfied any number of difficult course requirements, along with the more pleasant assignment of regular visits to the Ledo Restaurant in nearby Hyattsville.
Through the years since graduation, memories of Ledo's square-style pizza have lingered -- to a far greater degree than four semesters of German -- so it was a bit like homecoming when the latest Ledo enterprise opened its doors in Severna Park last July.
The pizza is still first-rate: thin crust, subtle homemade sauce and just the right goo quotient for the children.
Ledo offers a range of subs, along with lasagna ($5.95) and spaghetti ($4.95) and Italian salads ($2.99), but pizza reigns supreme. Prices are reasonable. A large plain pizza, for example, is $9.95; small is $3.95. Extra toppings can get a little pricey, but on our visit, two adults and two children sampled a medium pizza, steak and cheese sub ($4.29) and a house salad ($1.99) for under $20, which included tip. And we even took a few slices -- squares, actually -- home.
Our only criticism: This family-style restaurant doesn't serve milk for the children! So go back to school for some remedial work on common sense, Ledo owners, but please don't change the pizza recipe.