Bamboo HouseYorktowne Plaza Shopping Center, Cockeysville...

DINING OUT: THE CRITICS REPORT

December 08, 1990|By Mary Maushard | Mary Maushard,The Evening Sun York Inn The Sun Uncle Lee's The Sunday Sun

Bamboo House

Yorktowne Plaza Shopping Center, Cockeysville. 666-9550. This is a comfortable, soothing oasis set incongruously in a shopping center off York Road. It is also a successful oasis, having recently grown from one room to three. The Bamboo House is more sophisticated in its approach to food and service than many Chinese restaurants. The food is flavorful and plentiful; the Szechuan Green Beans were outstanding. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive.(Last visited 11/90).

10010 York Road, Cockeysville, 666-0006. Don't be in too much of a hurry to bypass Cockeysville's commercial strip, or you might miss the York Inn, tucked between a gas station and a discount mattress outlet. And that would be a shame. The York Inn (which is decorated with photographs from York Road's more picturesque past) offers above-average American-Continental fare, Mom-style vegetables, and down-home, diner-esque desserts. $$moderate. (Last visited 11/90.)

Lynn Williams 3317 Greenmount Ave., 366-3333. When Uncle Lee's was born in 1979, it was sensational. Really it was. Now, it's a little sleepy, and unremarkable. We liked our hot and sour soup, cold sesame noodles with cucumber and peanut butter sauce, and (( eggplants in garlic sauce (but only an eggplant lover can love so much gloppy eggplant and so many seeds). Paper chicken was greasy and dull, duck meat Hunan style tasted old and salty, and sauteed double flavors seemed to be partly canned shrimp and frozen peas. $$moderate. (Last visited 10/90.)

Janice Baker

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