Burke's Cafe, Light and Lombard, 752-4189.
Amid the renaissance raging on Baltimore's waterfront, this quiet restaurant has maintained its homely identity and comfortable atmosphere. With high wooden booths, perhaps Baltimore's best onion rings and a selection of good food that includes such standbys as open-faced turkey sandwiches and sour beef, Burke's remains unpretentious but reliable. The onions rings, though giant, were not as wonderful or as plentiful as I remembered, but the baked flounder was perfectly tender
and flaky. $inexpensive. (Last visited 10/90.) The reputation of this serene continental and Mediterranean restaurant has spread far beyond the city's borders, which can make for overwrought expectations; keep them in line and you can have a fine meal. Chicken with Grand Marnier sauce wasn't worth the trouble it took to eat it, but Shrimp Gibralter was admirable, and we loved our pate and scallops and chocolate mousse cake. $$ to $$ 1/2 moderate to expensive. (Last visited 10/90.)
Lynn Williams Steaks at the new Baltimore Grille in the Omni are big hunks of meat, simply grilled, and very good. Spirits are also first class. We ordered sherry and received a glorious Sandeman Royal Esmerelda oloroso. Still, the kitchen's culinary knowledge seemed limited. We liked some condiments on a cart -- a tomato salsa, and a honey and horseradish sauce -- but bread, vegetables, fish, and desserts were forgettable. A baked potato
cost $2.95. $$$expensive. (Last visited 9/90.)