Paris shows feature underwear as outerwear, delicate, space-age lines From Paris


October 25, 1990|By Trish Donnally | Trish Donnally,San Francisco Chronicle

PARIS — Paris--Super-sexy, fleshy fashions filled the French spring ready-to-wear collections.

Leggings, cat suits, bike shorts, bras, corsets and slip dresses, mid-thigh or higher, are among the many underwear-as-outerwear looks for spring.

Bright colors, black and white, and a parade of prints are in store. Spring boots are the surprising, and silly, accessory of the season.

More dresses were cut for spring than we've seen in years.

In his fashion show Tuesday, Emanuel Ungaro, who received the only standing ovation of the week, showed a flourish of dresses: snug, loose, solid, chintz, high or drop-waisted, in bright colors or pastels. Ungaro was one of the few this week who did not show a slew of '60s-flavored shifts.

Think Audrey Hepburn-delicate dresses and you've got the picture.

The shows this week were true theater both on and off the runways.

Claude Montana's show of sculptural, futuristic fashions was the best of the week.

In a season when prints are prevalent, Mr. Montana wiped the slate clean with pure, solid whites, beiges and blacks. His signature silhouettes for spring are short A-line skirts, jackets cut short in the front that flow to longer lengths in the back,

and cutaway armholes.

Christian Lacroix credited Emilio Pucci as his inspiration in a segment of his show titled "Homage to the Marquis." Wild prints in pastel colors adorned jackets, tunics and tights.

Gianfranco Ferre dished up a better spring collection for the House of Dior than he even did for himself in Milan.

Though he opened the show with a very Christian Dioresque full-skirted, nipped-waist number, Mr. Ferre's silhouette was sleek and modern for the most part.

In the Chanel collection he unveiled Monday, Karl Lagerfeld went surfing. He showed a turquoise sequined jacket with black bike shorts that looked like a citified wet suit.

His new Chanel jackets feature vents, which give them a lightweight, flyaway feeling.

And they're paired most often with leggings, the key item for spring.

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