The makeup trend of the '90s is retro, except smudgier and softer


October 18, 1990|By Valli Herman | Valli Herman,Los Angeles Daily News

Something was aflutter under those darkly lashed eyes. A new style in faces was flashing from the pages of major magazines. But it looked familiar, particularly to anyone who remembered the makeup of the '60s.

Supermodel Claudia Schiffer, in her ads for Guess? jeans, launched a hair and makeup look that has thrilled eyeliner fans of all ages.

It wasn't just her Brigitte Bardot look-alike features that signaled a new era in beauty trends. It was the pout of paler lips and the tousled, teased twist of a hairdo that gave momentum to the retro chic appearing in major fashion magazine editorials and advertisements and on fashion leaders.

(Ms. Schiffer will be in the area Saturday to promote the new Guess? Parfum at Hecht's, Tyson's Corner Center, McLean, Va. Please see Calendar, 3C.)

The hair and makeup aren't precise replicas of the teased bouffant hairdos and Cleopatra eyeliners that appeared in the '60s. The passage of years has created a smudgier, softer makeup legacy.

In order to achieve this new look, makeup artist Angela Margolis of Los Angeles suggests first applying base to the entire face, including the upper lip, the eyelids and a light coat over her lips.

"It takes down the color of the lips. You can almost reshape the lips by doing that. It helps to keep your lipstick on longer, too," she says.

She dots a deeper brown foundation under the cheekbones to add depth and under the jawbone to define the chin, then sponges it in to blend. Shading highlights also are added alongside the bridge of the nose to define features.

Highlighting contours, using a lighter foundation color, are applied on the tip of the chin, the inside edges of the fullest part of the cheeks and the top of her cheekbone to add a reflective quality.

A pinkish blush is blended into the center of the cheeks and along the tops. Ms. Margolis covers the face with powder and subdues overpowdered spots with the sponge she uses to apply the foundation.

The face now is ready to receive the detailing that creates the '60s look, updated for the '90s. Gone are the white eye shadows and lipsticks and the Twiggy painted-on lower lashes.

"The look now is more natural," Ms. Margolis said. "We don't see the white lips, and the liner is not quite as heavy as then. And the shadows in those days were like that seafoam green and buttercup yellow."

The new look retains a heavy but softened stroke of upper-lid eyeliner; matte eye shadow; false eyelashes; defined, but not stenciled eyebrows; medium to densely colored lips; and a pale wash of color along the cheek.

Ms. Margolis applies the eye makeup in a set order: shadow, powder eyeliner, pencil eyeliner, mascara and false eyelashes.

A layer of light, matte eye shadow in either ivory or a white-toned shade, is applied over the entire lid.

"It's important to do the shadow first because it evens out the skin tone, and it highlights the eyelid," Ms. Margolis said. She follows with a darker shade, a soft beige, in the crease of the eyelid to contour the lid.

The eyeliner is the most crucial part of the look. Four types of eyeliner can be used to achieve the solid line.

Ms. Margolis said a liquid liner gives the cleanest stroke; a pencil is more "smoldering"; moistened, matte eye shadow applied with an angled brush doesn't bleed or run; pencil with shadow gives advantages of both plus a deeper color.

With each type, the line is easiest to control by using the right tools to apply the makeup in fine, short, blended strokes, she said. Ms. Margolis uses a 1/4 -inch Grumbacher artist's paintbrush, available for less than $5 at art supply stores. Even with the precision of this brush, which first is dampened and pinched to flatten the bristles, it is not necessary to try to draw the eyeliner in one fell swoop.

It may take some practice to become comfortable with the false eyelashes, which lend the dramatic finish to the eyes. The lashes, available in most beauty-supply stores for less than $5, are applied near the natural lash line with tweezers for the most accurate grip and a fine line of easily removable eyelash glue.

A fine line of shadow or pencil eyeliner may be necessary to realign the eyeliner after the lashes are applied.

The lips get the finishing stroke. Go bold with red for a dramatic nighttime look, or with a pale, matte lipstick for the new natural look. Ms. Margolis uses a lip pencil to follow the natural outline of the lips, powders over it to set the pencil line, then brushes on a similar shade of lipstick.

And the finishing touches? A tousled sixties hair twist and some mod '60s earrings.

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