Danny's RestaurantCharles and Biddle streets...

DINING OUT: THE CRITICS REPORT

October 13, 1990|By Mary Maushard | Mary Maushard,THE EVENING SUN Bowman 9306 Harford Road, 665-8600. THE SUN Calvert Street Cafe 12 South Calvert St., 837-2233. THE SUNDAY SUN

Danny's Restaurant

Charles and Biddle streets, 539-1393.

Danny's has been in business since 1961 and offers quality food with service to match. The dinner my husband and I had recently at this traditional Baltimore restaurant was among the finest meals we have had in 11 years in Baltimore. Not only were the food and service virtually incomparable, but we were also made to feel comfortable. Much of the fare is traditional with beef and seafood aplenty. Several of the dishes are prepared at table-side, lending wonderful aromas to the atmosphere. $$$expensive. (Last visited 9/90.)

Bowman is not a "star" restaurant, with the attendant press attention and crowds; it's more like a character actor, going its unflashy way and performing solid work. Both its design and its menu are somewhat generic (if pleasant) suburban-American, and some of its offerings are clunky. But others, including a hand-shaped crab cake, shrimp in garlic, and a luscious chocolate-hazelnut pie, show definite star quality. $$moderate. (Last visited 9/90.)

Lynn Williams There's one wonderful reason to eat at the Calvert Street Cafe -- the room. The old upper walls and ceiling are formed of delicate plasterwork painted Wedgewood blue and white, the lower walls were tiled years ago in other blues, and an unrefurbished, varnished wood bar faces varnished paneling that looks untouched for 60 years. Go for lunch, and order something uncomplicated like a sandwich and beer. At night, a live band made eating the simple entrees almost impossible. $$moderate. (Last visited 8/90.)

Janice Baker

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