HUNAN WOK, 2835 J Smith Ave., Greenspring Shopping 0) Center.
Open weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Sunday noon to 10 p.m. Closed Monday. Phone: 486-3267, 486-3268. Fax: 486-3269.
The Greenspring Shopping Center is the neighborhood hangout for Northwest Baltimore. It may have the most bizarre parking lot behavior in the city, but its convenience and quality mix of shops and movies make it popular. It has one of the best delicatessens in the city, but it has always lacked a first-class Chinese carryout to round off the food offerings.
The wait is over. Three months ago, Hunan Wok opened a small eat-in and carryout inside the atrium, just around the corner from Chick's Legendary Records. Proprietors David Chu, Bamboo, George and Long Tu (that's how their names appear out front) formerly owned the Hunan Taste in Randallstown.
I ordered the Orange Beef ($9.75) and General Tso's chicken ($8.75). Both were breaded in semi-heavy batter. The chicken was delicious, bathed in a marvelously spicy sauce with very large, tender pieces of chicken breast. The Orange Beef was less spicy, surprisingly, with equally large pieces. The beef was tasty and tender but slightly dry. There's a very large and exotic menu -- if I were more adventurous I would have tried the crispy whole grouper, bean curd Hunan style, or Puu Puu tray for two. Oh well. In the next life.